Rosehip Oil (aka rosehip seed oil, rosehip berry oil, & rose hip oil) has been used for centuries as medicine, for rituals, and for skin rejuvenation and protection. Today, eastern medicine and tribes continue to use this oil for physical recovery, rituals, and beauty.
Rose hips are the fruit and seed pods of the rosa species. Rosehip Oil can be made from either the flesh or the seeds, both containing different benefits and properties, along with some shared benefits as well. They have a berry-like appearance when they age, often with bright yellow – bright red coloring. It is those with bright red coloring that we will discuss in this article.
By far, the most researched rose hip is the Rosa canina (aka Dog Rose) native to northwest Africa, western Asia, and many parts of Europe. However, other species such as R. gallica, R. rugosa, R. rubiginosa, and R. spinosissima have also been a part of the research we are discussing today. It is a deciduous shrub that grows wild in the harshest of areas, enduring many temperature changes and challenges. In order to deal with such stresses, these plants needed to produce very strong chemical compounds to protect themselves.
We will be looking at how these compounds can be used to benefit our scalp in haircare
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Who is rosehip oil best suited for?
The truth is, many people can benefit from using rosehip oil on their hair and scalp, but some people may benefit more than others. It all comes down to your personal issues & concerns.
hair and scalp types & concerns
Aging
As we age, our bodies change as well, and the scalp is no exception. Rosehip oil may help combat aging and heal past damage.
Chronic inflammation and damage ages the scalp due to cellular degradation. Sun exposure (if you are one of the few that remembers to put sunscreen on your scalp, I applaud you), chronic scratching, hair products, and skin conditions such as psoriasis and eczema are examples of the culprits to an inflamed and damaged scalp. And aged scalps are prone to misbehaving. Brittle hair, hair loss, and skin cancers are a few of the many problems that can form. If we want to prevent age-related issues, we need to work on calming and healing our scalps.
One study showed that the topical application of rosehip oil from Rosa canina helped to reduce inflammation and heal scaring associated with sun exposure and inflammatory skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis. (9)
Another study found that the topical application of rosehip oil helped to prevent future damage to the skin through its many antioxidants, unsaturated fatty acids, and carotenoids. (10)
Damaged & Sensitive
Every day, the numbers of people experiencing skin issues such as eczema, rosacea, psoriasis, and dermatitis continue to grow. A very common issue with these skin diseases is that they leave the skin vulnerable and inflamed.
One study showed that the antioxidants and tannins in rosehip oil (tannins give rosehip oil that beautiful, rich orange-red color) reduced atopic dermatitis inflammation when applied topically to the skin. (10)
Dryness is another issue that can follow many skin conditions, and rosehip oil helps to protect the skin from water loss by acting as a barrier and holding the water in.
Oily
Oily scalps need help. Increases in oil production can lead to many scalp issues, such as dermatitis, clogged follicles, and even scalp acne, or “scalpne” as it is sometimes referred to colloquially. An oily scalp is mostly due to our heredity and hormones, but some with oily scalps also experience this only when sebum and sweat production increases, such as when beginning an exercise routine or moving to a hotter climate.
Rosehip seed oil contains linoleic fatty acid, an unsaturated fatty acid that has been shown to reduce oil production. Rosehip oil also falls low on the comedogenic rating as a 1-2, meaning it is unlikely to clog pores and create acne.
And as if that were not enough, rosehip oil contains trans-retinoic acid (natural tretinoin), a powerful derivative of vitamin A that has been shown to control acne and heal photo-aging in the skin. (16)
More on What's inside rosehip oil
Scientific research on Rosehip Oil has helped uncover many potentials in its use, however there are only a few studies that look at rosehip oil specifically and its benefits topically. This research, combined with many testimonials, shows a very promising future for Rosehip Oil.
rosehip oil has powerful anti-oxidants
Vitamin A: Carotenoids & Retinoid
Carotenoids are lipid-soluble antioxidants. Carotenoids help protect the skin and prevent some cancers. Rosehip oil has been found to contain the carotenoids β-carotene, lycopene, β-cryptoxanthin, rubixanthin, zeaxanthin, and lutein. (10) Carotenoids are part of the vitamin A family called provitamin A. This leads us to one of rosehip oil’s best properties in my personal opinion: Trans-retinoic acid.
As previously stated, trans-retinoic acid, or natural tretinoin, has been shown in many scientific studies to help prevent the formation of acne and comedones, as well as anti-age the skin. But let’s dive deeper.
Trans-retinoic acid has been proven by many scientific studies to reduce and control acne topically by increasing cellular turnover at a deeper level than other exfoliators, physical and chemical, cannot do. This rapid cellular turnover prevents clogged pores that ultimately lead to comedones and acne.
Trans-retinoic acid also helps reduce scarring on the skin. Rosehip oil was used at very high concentrations on scars from acne and stretch marks, and the results were that there was a significant improvement in scaring compared to the placebo. (16)
Many studies also support that trans-retinoic acid helps to reverse damage due to photo-aging through thickening the skin, increasing collagen production, and inhibiting abnormal cellular growth. (8)
Vitamin C
Most of us have heard of ascorbic acid or l-ascorbic acid.
Long touted for its anti-aging and brightening properties, we can find the highest source of ascorbic acid among fruits and vegetables in the pseudo fruit rose hips. (6) Even though most of the vitamin C is present in the fruit and flesh of the rosehip, the seed oil still contains some ascorbic acid as well. Some studies have shown that adding ascorbic acid to your skin before your sunscreen can help increase the protection from harmful UV radiation. (3) However, it is important to state that vitamin c in its ascorbic acid form is very unstable, so proper manufacturing, usage, and storage is essential to reap the benefits of this vitamin. See more below on this topic.
Vitamin E
Rosehip oil has one of the most important vitamins of all, vitamin E in the form of tocopherols. Tocopherols have been shown in many studies to effectively scavenge free radicals. Tocopherols also prevent the oxidization of oils, increasing their shelf life.
Rosehip oil has helpful fatty acids and phytosterols
Rosehip oil contains many polyunsaturated fatty acids such as linoleic, α-linolenic, oleic, palmitic, and stearic. We will focus on the oils that are the most abundant in rosehips.
Linoleic Fatty Acid (LA)
Linoleic fatty acid is the most abundant omega-6 fatty acid in our skin, but we do not produce this ourselves. We obtain this fatty acid through diet or by applying it topically.
Linoleic acid works synergistically with α-linolenic acid to synthesize derivatives that are needed for important functions in healthy skin. Ceramides, an important component of our skin, are directly linked to the use and consumption of linoleic acid, as ceramides are created from linoleic acid. (1)
Linoleic acid applied topically also can improve acne, and it is non-comedogenic.
Alpha-Linolenic Fatty Acid (ALA)
Alpha-linolenic fatty acid (aka α-linolenic fatty acid or ALA) is an omega-3 fatty acid that works synergistically with linoleic fatty acid in the skin. As with linoleic acid, ALA is not created in our bodies. We must supplement it. Additionally, our bodies have great difficulty processing ALA when ingested. This is different however when ALA is applied topically. (1)
The inflammation created by skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and atopic dermatitis can damage and age the skin. ALA applied topically can help to reduce inflammation by improving the immune response to skin diseases and thus calming the inflammation. (11)
ALA has been shown to improve hyperpigmentation in the skin by inhibiting melanin production. It does this by reducing the inflammation response in our skin brought on by sun exposure, air pollution, and scarring. (9)
As with linoleic acid, α-linolenic acid is ok to use on acne-prone skin and is non-comedogenic. (11)
Oleic Fatty Acid
Oleic fatty acid is an omega 9 fatty acid and is biologically identical to what we produce in our skin. In fact, many of you already consume plenty of oleic acid in extra virgin olive oil! Oleic acid has been shown to accelerate wound healing and impart suppleness to the skin. (1)
Oleic acid is more comedogenic than linoleic or α-linolenic fatty acids, but as the third least prevalent fatty acid in the profile (around 16%), rosehip oil still has a 1-2 comedogenic rating and is not likely to clog pores for most people. (9)
β-sitosterol
Phytosterols are the plant version of cholesterol.
Rosehip seed oil has one of the highest amounts of phytosterols, if not the highest, in comparison to many other seed-based oils, particularly the sterol β-sitosterol. (4)
Studies have shown that β-sitosterol is highly present in rosehip oil and helps to prevent aging, moisturize, and soothe skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis due to its anti-inflammatory properties. (5)
Rosehip oil is rich in polyphenols
Flavonoids
Flavonoids are protecting compounds that can build up in our skin. Studies have shown that flavonoids can protect our skin from damaging UVB radiation and help heal sunburns. (13) Rosehip seeds contain flavonoids such as rutin and quercetin-3-O-glucoside.
Rutin has been shown in some studies to increase collagen, increase elasticity, and diminish fine lines and wrinkles when applied at 1% concentration in only 2 – 4 weeks. (2)
Quercetin-3-O-glucoside has been shown to have strong healing properties when applied topically. (13)
What to look for when buying Rosehip Oils
Cold-pressed
There are many extraction methods, but the best by far according to the research is an oil that has been extracted in a method known as cold-pressed. Cold-pressed oils do not endure high heat when processed compared to other extraction methods. This helps the oil retain many of its protective properties. Cold-pressed oils tend to retain more of their natural vitamin E, and it is vitamin E that we typically use when formulating with oils in order to keep them from going rancid. And, of course, there have been studies to prove this fact.
Grajzer wrote: “In summary, cold-pressed rose hip oil proves to be a valuable source not only of linolenic acid, it also has an appreciable amount of lipophilic antioxidants, especially y- and d-tocopherol as well as carotenoids when compared to two other commercially available cold-pressed oils rich in linolenic acid: camelina and walnut oils. It has been shown for the first time that rose hip oil contains phenolic acids at a relatively high level, especially p-coumaric acid methyl ester, vanillin and vanillic acid. Some differences in sterol composition were found when compared to previously analyzed solvent extracted rose hip oils, e.g. a considerable amount of cycloartenol was detected in cold-pressed oil… Rose hip oil was shown for the first time to have relatively high protection against oxidative stress as measured by DSC, and this seemed to be a result of its high antioxidant capacity and level of unsaturation of fatty acids.” (4)
Container & expiration date
Rosehip oil, unfortunately, has a short shelf life when compared to many other oils. This is due to the high amount of Polyunsaturated fatty acids and low levels of saturated fatty acids in rosehip oil’s profile.
Exposure to heat, light, and air will speed up the expiration of your oil. This is why the container rosehip oil is in is just as important as how the oil is processed, and how the oil is being stored. Look for opaque containers that limit air exposure. Oil droppers that you unscrew are a big NO unless you can move the oil to a dark glass or plastic pump bottle or airless pump bottle.
Another important fact to know is when it was processed. With a shelf life of only 3-6 months (more if stored properly) the clock begins to tick the second it is extracted and bottled. Look for manufacturers that provide an expiration date or a “made on” date.
Storage
One of the best ways to extend the life of your rosehip oil is to store it in a dark and cool area in the house. For me, this is the back of a mini-fridge that I have.
If you live in a colder climate where temperatures rarely reach over 65 degrees Fahrenheit in your house, in the back of a cabinet away from a heat source will be fine.
What to expect when using Rosehip Oil
Feel and texture
Rosehip oil is a dry oil, meaning that it absorbs quickly and leaves the skin feeling soft but not greasy. Almost no residue. It is very light and silky.
Rosehip Oil is not for everyone
As with most things in life, rosehip oil will not suit everyone. Allergic reactions irritancies may occur.
It is always best to test rosehip oil first. Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines on how to safely test their product. If directions are not available from the manufacturer, click here to view an article on WebMD that explains how to test a product for sensitivities, as well as read more on skin reactions and what to look for.
And, as always, it is best to consult your dermatologist or another medical professional before trying a new product, especially if you are already at risk for reactions.
Check out my products that have rosehip oil in them!
Sources for this article:
Angelo, G. (2012, February 1). Essential Fatty Acids and Skin Health. 1. Retrieved 2021, from Oregon State University Linus Pauling Institute. Click here to read the article.
Choi, S. J. (2016). Biological effects of rutin on skin aging. International Journal of Molecular Medicine, 38(1), 357-363. doi:10.3892/ijmm.2016.2604. Click here to read the article.
- Darr D, D. S. (1996). Effectiveness of antioxidants (vitamin C and E) with and without sunscreens as topical photoprotectants. Acta dermato-venereologica, 76(4), 264-268. doi:10.2340/0001555576264268. Click here to read the article.
Grajzer M, Szmalcel K, Kuźmiński Ł, Witkowski M, Kulma A, Prescha A. Characteristics and Antioxidant Potential of Cold-Pressed Oils—Possible Strategies to Improve Oil Stability. Foods. 2020; 9(11):1630. https://doi.org/10.3390/foods9111630. Click here to read the article.
Han, Na-Ra et al. “The β-sitosterol attenuates atopic dermatitis-like skin lesions through down-regulation of TSLP.” Experimental biology and medicine (Maywood, N.J.) vol. 239,4 (2014): 454-64. doi:10.1177/1535370213520111. Click here to read the article.
Ilyasoğlu, H. (2014). Characterization of Rosehip (Rosa canina L.) Seed. International Journal of Food Properties, 1591-1598. doi:10.1080/10942912.2013.777075. Click here to read the article.
Koczka, Noémi et al. “Total Polyphenol Content and Antioxidant Capacity of Rosehips of Some Rosa Species.” Medicines (Basel, Switzerland) vol. 5,3 84. 4 Aug. 2018, doi:10.3390/medicines5030084. Click here to read the article.
Kong, R. e. (2015). A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(1), 49-57. doi:10.1111/jocd.12193. Click here to read the article.
Lin, Tzu-Kai et al.“Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils.” International journal of molecular sciences vol. 19,1 70. 27 Dec. 2017, doi:10.3390/ijms19010070. Click here to read this article.
Mármol, Inés et al. “Therapeutic Applications of Rose Hips from Different Rosa Species.” International journal of molecular sciences vol. 18,6 1137. 25 May. 2017, doi:10.3390/ijms18061137. Click here to read the article.
McCusker, M. M., & Grant-Kels, J. M. (2010). Healing fats of the skin: the structural and immunologic roles of the ω-6 and ω-3 fatty acids. Clinics of Dermatology, 28(4), 440-451. doi:10.1016/j.clindermatol.2010.03.020. Click here to read the article.
McDermott, Annette for Healthline. What Are the Benefits of Rosehip Oil? 20 March 2019. Web. 13 November 2021. Click here to read this article.
Medveckienė, B., Kulaitienė, J., Jarienė, E., Vaitkevičienė, N., & Hallman, E. (2020). Carotenoids, Polyphenols, and Ascorbic Acid in Organic Rosehips (Rosa spp.) Cultivated in Lithuania. Applied Sciences, 10(15), 5337. doi:10.3390/app10155337. Click here to read the article.
Phetcharat L, Wongsuphasawat K, Winther K. “The effectiveness of a standardized rose hip powder, containing seeds and shells of Rosa canina, on cell longevity, skin wrinkles, moisture, and elasticity.” Clin Interv Aging. 2015;10:1849-1856. https://doi.org/10.2147/CIA.S90092. Click here to read this article.
Turan, S., Solak, R., Kiralan, M., & Ramadan, M. F. (2018). Bioactive lipids, antiradical activity and stability of rosehip seed oil under thermal and photo-induced oxidation. Grasas Y Aceites, 69(2), e248. doi:10.3989/gya.1114172. Click here to read the article.
Valerón-Almazán, P., Gómez-Duaso, A. J., Santana-Molina, N., García-Bello, M. A., & Carretero, G. (2015). Evolution of Post-Surgical Scars Treated with Pure Rosehip Seed Oil. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, 5(2), 161-167. doi:10.4236/jcdsa.2015.52019. Click here to read the article.